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Safe Money Places
Newsletters
CD Complex
(Spring 2005)
In the good
old days you could go down to your local bank
and buy a certificate of deposit for a specific
time period and earn a specific rate. If you
cashed in your CD early you paid a specific
penalty and went on your way. Although you can
still find the old style bank certificate at
your bank, there are now many more choices. CDs,
like the rest of the world, got more
complicated.
You can buy CDs where the
interest rate paid may increase or decrease over
time based on a set schedule, or where the
interest you earned is linked to the performance
of an equity index, or even where it is
denominated in a foreign currency.
Your CD may be “callable”
whereby the bank can pay you off prior to
maturity at their whim (usually when new CD
rates are lower than your current rate).
However, “callable” is a one way street, a
depositor cannot “call” the bank (if rates go
up) and tell them to send you your money without
penalty.
You can redeem a traditional
CD by going to the bank, surrendering the CD and
paying the penalty, but some of these newer CDs
cannot be cashed in before the end of the term.
It is possible you may be able to sell the CD –
like you would a stock – but as with a stock the
price may be more or less than you originally
paid.
And you may not hear what you
thought you heard. If someone told you about a
“penalty free, five year non-callable CD” you
might think you heard about a CD with a five
year maturity having no penalties for early
withdrawal. However, the reality could be a CD
that does not mature for 10 years, but that the
bank cannot take it away for at least 5 five
years, and the reason there are no penalties for
early withdrawal is because the CD cannot be
withdrawn until the end of the term.
If it is a “brokered” CD you
also need to know the bank behind it. The reason
is if you are already maxed out on FDIC coverage
at one bank, and the same bank issues the
brokered CD, you might find part of your money
would not be FDIC insured. And as long as we are
talking about “brokered”, since CD brokers may
not have a license or be state registered, check
them out very carefully. Some CD tips are
available at the Securities & Exchange
Commission site
http://www.sec.gov/investor/pubs/certific.htm
Complexity is not a bad
thing, a stereo is much more complicated than
the crystal set you might have built as a youth,
but it does so much more. Complexity in a CD
means you need to ask more questions to find the
right one.
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To Whom Do You
Complain? (Spring 2005)
It sure sounded good when they were
presenting it, but somehow that CD or annuity or
investment is not what you thought you were
getting and frankly, you are not happy.
If you believed you have
been wronged a regulatory complaint or hiring an
attorney should usually not be the first thing
you do (unless there is a specific reason to get
the regulators or attorneys involved
immediately). Under most circumstances
complaints are a three-step process:
First.
Try to get
satisfaction from the agent, advisor, or banker
that was involved in the purchase.
Second.
If that fails, write a registered letter to the
bank or insurance company with whom you have the
account detailing why you feel you were wronged
and what would make it right. If it is a
security related complaint write to the
individual’s broker/dealer (the name on the
representative’s business card after “securities
offered through”). Do not make a complaint by
phone because you want a written record. Give
the company a reasonable deadline in which to
respond.
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Third. If the
company approach fails pull out the big guns. The web
sites listed below will lead you to the complaint
department of the agency regulating your troubled area
where you may file a complaint.
Annuity (This will take you to
State Links)
www.safemoneyplaces.com/states.htm
Credit Union (NCUA)
http://www.ncua.gov/Resources/ConsumerInformation/index.aspx
Employee Retirement Plan (Dept. of
Labor)
http://www.dol.gov/ebsa/oemanual/cha30.html#
Investment Advisor or Planner
(SEC)
http://www.sec.gov/complaint/selectconduct.shtml
Investment Securities (FInRA)
http://www.nasd.com
National Banks (OCC)
http://www.occ.treas.gov/customer.htm
Savings Banks (OTS)
http://www.ots.treas.gov/?p=ConsumerComplaintsInquiries
State Banks (Federal Reserve
Board)
http://www.federalreserve.gov/pubs/complaints/
or (FDIC)
http://www.fdic.gov/consumers/questions/index.html
Keep in mind that while a
successful complaint to a regulator may provide personal
satisfaction it probably will not result in a cash
payment to you. If you are looking for fiscal
satisfaction you may need to hire an attorney. The
attorney will can take the matter to court or assist you
if binding arbitration is required.
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I have seen
folks jump immediately to step 3 and the usual
reason is because the original person dealt with
starts hiding under the desk when the consumer
walks in or does not return calls, and this lack
of response prompts the big gun methods.
However, I have found most complaints can be
resolved by “talking to their boss”, or the
boss’s boss to try to get satisfaction before a
formal complaint is lodged or the courthouse
beckons. But if the first and second steps do
not work, or you notice overseas airline tickets
on your financial counselor’s desk, then move
quickly to the third step. Happy resolution! |
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Safe Money
& Risk Money Place Differences (Spring 2005)
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A safe money place is one
where it is very, very unlikely that you will
lose interest and credited gains – CDs and fixed
annuities would be examples. A risk money place
is one where you could lose principal and gains
– a growth mutual fund is a risk money place.
Both risk and safe money places should give you
potential returns commensurate with your risk,
and that is extremely important when considering
opportunities.
Not Worth The Risk
Say the potential
return on that annuity is 5%. If a mutual fund
had a realistic potential return of 5.5% this
would probably not be adequate compensation for
the risk of owning the fund – funds are risk
money places because one can lose principal and
previous gains.
Too Good To Be True
But just as
important, if you were offered what was said to
be a safe money place with a long-term return of
11% something is wrong, because a true safe
money place would not need to offer a potential
return of 11% when another safe place is paying
5%.
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Fixed rate annuity returns,
as with CD returns, are primarily determined by
what the institution earns. Rates at one place
may be higher than another due to lower expenses
or more aggressive earnings management, but the
rates should not be too much above the
competition.
Although index annuities are
a safe money place that have delivered periods
of double digit interest rates this doesn’t mean
they are an exception to the rule. In the short
run index annuities may enjoy returns associated
with risk places, but pricing constraints and
stock market cycles should produce long-term
rates that are closer to fixed rate annuities
than risk place returns. One should not expect a
safe money place to perform as well as a risk
place over time.
How do you determine if a
safe money return is for real? If it looks too
good ask specifically how the return is being
produced and see if it makes sense to you.
Certain safe money places offer a real potential
for higher yields than others, and these higher
potential places include both fixed rate and
index annuities.
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10
Money Questions You Need To Ask Yourself (Summer
2005)
Before you determine what you
should do with your money – either figuring it
out by yourself or with the help of a financial
provider – you need to ask and answer some hard
questions. Honest answers will help you
understand what your financial needs really are
so you don’t choose or get sold the wrong
solutions, and help both you and any provider
find the right solutions.
1.
Overall, what is your main financial objective?
2.
How much liquid money do you have and how much
do you need? A million dollar net worth doesn’t
mean you have a million dollars to work with if
$800,000 is tied up in a house. And if you spend
$30,000 a year, but have $80,000 sitting in a
low or no interest place you could be drowning
in a sea of liquidity.
3.
Are taxes a consideration? It’s not all cut and
dried that the lowest tax solution is always
best, but everything else being equal paying no
tax is better than paying a lot of tax, and
paying a tax bill tomorrow is usually better
than paying it today.
4.
How much financial experience do you have? If
the answer is not much, read everything you can
on personal finance, but remember to be a
skeptic! The writer’s job is to sell their point
of view first, so take everything you read with
a grain of salt (and that would include this
article).
5.
How much risk can you tolerate? There are two
aspects to risk. The first is how much loss can
you financially handle? The second is how much
loss can you emotionally handle (and the
emotions question is more important)?
6.
Who is dependent on you? If you will need to
provide money in fifteen years for a child or
grandchild’s college education this will affect
the way your money is placed today. And this
might be a very good time to ask yourself if you
get hit by a bus tomorrow will those depending
on you still have enough money to get by? It’s
not a pretty thing to think about, but life
insurance is still the cheapest way to complete
your financial objectives if you become worm
food.
7.
Take a financial snapshot. Where is your money
today?
8.
How is your health? Here’s a thought you may
never have considered. If you come from a
long-lived family the odds increase that you
will need nursing home care. One simple thing
you can do is to ensure any annuity you might
own waives all penalties if you go into a
nursing home.
9.
What are the two or three key things you want
your money to do? “I want more money” is what
most people say, but why? Is it to live better
today or in ten years...to make sure the spouse
and you get a monthly check for as long as you
live...to take care of the
children/grandchildren...to pay less in
taxes...to sleep at night...to never lose
money...to fund charitable contributions?
10.
Finally, do you understand the realities of the
solutions? For example, you may select a money
market account as one of your financial
solutions. There is nothing wrong with a money
market account, but you do understand that a
dollar in a money market account will generally
earn less than a dollar in a certificate of
deposit or fixed annuity? Or, while a dollar in
a CD or fixed annuity will probably give you a
higher yield, those dollars have liquidity costs
that money market accounts do not have.
The main thing to remember in deciding how to
divvy up your dollars is that no one financial
solution is the right one or the wrong one.
The reality
is you will need more than one. Answering these
questions will help you decide on the financial
stew that is most tasteful to you.
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Energy Saving Tips (Spring 2006)
Electric lighting heat must be removed by air
conditioning. Turn lights off when not in use.
A 40
watt incandescent lamp and a 40 fluorescent bulb use the
same amount of electricity, but the fluorescent lamp
creates five times as much light.
Plant shrubs and trees around the air conditioning
condenser to improve its operating efficiency (but don’t
restrict airflow).
Clean
air conditioning ducts to increase the efficiency of the
air conditioning system and save on the bills.
Solar
film installed on the south and west windows will keep
the house cooler in the summer (reflective
materials on the window side of draperies reflect solar
heat when the curtains are closed
).
You
can turn off the oven or stove a few minutes before an
item is finished cooking and the residual heat will
finish the job.
You
can lower the temperature of domestic hot water in the
summer and still provide adequate comfort and service.
Tilt blinds slightly to keep direct
sunlight from entering a room and heating it up
unnecessarily in the summer.
Wear
lighter clothing in warm weather and raise the air
conditioning thermostat.
Balancing Liquidity & Yield (Spring 2006)
It would not make sense to purchase a 5-year CD if you
will need to spend that money in 30 days – choosing the
CD costs you a liquidity penalty. By the same logic it
does not make sense to keep money that you probably will
not need for 5 years in a low yielding savings account –
choosing the savings account costs you a yield penalty.
We believe consumers tend to err on
the side of liquidity and this results in much less
money being available down the road. If you can increase
your average yield by only 2% this could mean over
$30,000 more in hand in only ten years on an original
$100,000 nest egg.
You need
enough liquidity so you can sleep at night and not worry
about cash needs. How much liquidity is enough? Only you
can decide that, but liquidity has costs.
Does it make sense to select a fixed
annuity or certificate of deposit with an initial
withdrawal penalty instead of keeping the money in a
savings account with no penalties? Yes, if there is
little likelihood of needing money from the annuity and
incurring the penalty, AND the CD or annuity delivers a
yield higher than the savings account.
Financial decisions are not made in a
vacuum, but are always a choice between alternatives and
the net after-penalty yields need to be compared to
determine the true cost of liquidity.
One needs to understand the realities
of the solutions. A money market account will generally
earn less than a certificate of deposit; however, a
dollar in a CD has withdrawal costs that a money market
account does not have.
The overriding guideline is that to
have
enough liquidity to be able to sleep at night and not
worry about cash needs.
Simplify Your Finances (Summer 2006)
Simplify
your life: Have your Social Security benefits,
pension payments and other income automatically
deposited into your bank account each month. Also
arrange with your bank to automatically pay your
mortgage, utility bills, insurance premiums and other
recurring charges. Doing so takes the hassle out of
making scheduled payments and helps avoid late charges
or service interruptions. You can also have automatic
withdrawals from your bank account to routinely put a
certain amount of money into a savings account, a
certificate of deposit (CD), an annuity or a U.S.
Savings Bond.
It's Never Too Late to Simplify and Organize Your
Finances: Telephone banking allows you to use your phone to
confirm that checks or deposits have cleared, get your
latest balance or transfer money between different
accounts at the same bank. And if you own a home
computer, consider banking and bill paying quickly and
easily over the Internet, 24 hours a day, seven days a
week. Internet banking and bill paying is usually free
of charge or it costs less than what you'd spend on
postage.
Protect
your important documents: Make sure your bank and
brokerage statements, insurance policies, Social
Security and company pension records, and other personal
and financial papers are in a safe place and easy to get
to.
As the victims of recent disasters have learned, it's
wise to take extra precautions with essential records.
For the most important original documents, such as
wills, passports and birth certificates, seal them in
airtight and waterproof containers to prevent water
damage. Make backup copies and consider giving
duplicates to loved ones — or at least let them know.
Consider renting a safe deposit box at your bank for
certain papers that could be difficult or impossible to
replace, such as birth certificates. Don't put into a
safe deposit box anything you might need in an
emergency, such as your passport or medical-care
directives, in case your bank is closed for the weekend.
There may be complications accessing a will in a safe
deposit box after the person dies, and remember that
copies of wills aren't valid. Perhaps the best approach
is to ask your attorney for guidance. For the most
important papers you keep at home, consider an
inexpensive but durable home safe.
Take
precautions with old accounts. For the benefit of
your heirs, either dispose of proof of old bank and
brokerage accounts, life insurance policies and other
assets you no longer own (again, assuming you don't need
the documents for tax or other purposes) or clearly mark
them as being sold or cashed in. Otherwise, loved ones
could waste a lot of time and effort researching these
mystery accounts when there is no money or property to
be claimed.
On the other hand, people do lose or forget about money
or property. That's why it's important to keep records
of your finances, note which accounts have been closed
or cashed in, and make sure your financial institutions
and others who owe you money have your current address.
In most cases, after a certain number of years of being
"unclaimed," assets are transferred to the state
government, where they still can be claimed by the
rightful owners. You also can begin a search for assets
of any sort that have been sent to a state by going to
the Web site of the National Association of Unclaimed
Property Administrators (www.unclaimed.org).
Beware of frauds involving companies offering to "find"
your unclaimed property. Some companies may charge fees
up-front based on misleading claims or for services you
could easily perform on your own.
Update your will and other legal documents: Who will
inherit your property when you die? Who else should have
access to checking accounts to pay bills if you're
hospitalized? What kind of medical treatments do you
want to receive or avoid if you become critically ill?
Your answers to these questions may require actions
involving important legal documents and how you set up
various bank accounts.
Some matters
may be handled as part of your will. Others may involve
having or updating a "durable power of attorney"
(authorizing someone to handle your finances or other
personal matters if you become mentally or physically
incapacitated), a "living will" or a "health care power
of
attorney” (designating a family member to make
decisions about medical treatment). Having these
health-related directives can prevent unwanted and
potentially costly medical procedures. You may want to
hire an attorney specializing in elder law or estate
planning.
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Your Bank Records: What to
Keep, What to Toss... and When
We can't tell you
when it's safe to throw away certain financial
documents — that's for you to decide,
but we can tell you that it's important
to develop a plan for managing all this
paperwork.
¨
Federal tax rules
require you to have receipts and other records
that support items on a return for as long as
the IRS can assess you additional tax. "Under
most circumstances," says Rick Cywinski, an FDIC
tax policy manager, "the IRS can assess a tax up
to three years from the date you filed your tax
return, but it's six years if the IRS suspects
you underreported income by more than 25
percent."
¨
Canceled checks:
Those with no long-term significance for tax or
other purposes probably can be destroyed after
about a year. But canceled checks that support
your tax returns, such as charitable
contributions or tax payments, probably should
be held for at least seven years. And, keep
indefinitely (for other tax reasons) any
canceled checks and related receipts or
documents for a home purchase or sale,
renovations or other improvements to a property
you own, and non-deductible contributions to an
Individual Retirement Account.
¨
Deposit, ATM, credit
card and debit card receipts: Save them until
the transaction appears on your statement and
you've verified that the information is
accurate.
¨
Credit card and bank
account statements: Save those with no tax or
other long-term significance for about a year,
but save the rest for up to seven years. If you
get a detailed annual statement, keep that and
discard the corresponding monthly statements. Be
sure to mark closed deposit accounts as such, so
your heirs don't waste time wondering what
happened to the money.
¨
Credit card contracts
and other loan agreements: Keep for as long as
the account is active, in case you have a
dispute with your lender over the terms of your
contract.
¨
Documentation of your
purchase or sale of stocks, bonds and other
investments: Retain these while you own the
investment and then seven years after that.
Reprinted from FDIC Consumer
News.
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Fall 2006
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Who Is On Your Savings Bond? |
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Denomination |
Series EE |
I Bond |
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$50.00 |
George
Washington |
Helen Keller |
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$75.00 |
John Adams |
Hector Garcia |
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$100.00 |
Thomas Jefferson |
Martin Luther
King Jr. |
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$200.00 |
James Madison |
Chief Joseph |
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$500.00 |
Alexander
Hamilton |
George C.
Marshall |
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$1000.00 |
Benjamin
Franklin |
Albert Einstein |
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$5000.00 |
Paul Revere |
Marian Anderson |
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$10000.00 |
James Wilson |
Spark Matsunaga |
Avoiding Costly Banking Mistakes (Winter 2006)
To err is human...and sometimes it can be expensive.
That's the case for many consumers who have to pay fees
and penalties because of mistakes they've made when
using their checking account, credit card or other
banking services.
Not checking up on your checking
account
Many people write checks and use their debit card
without paying attention to their account balance. The
results can be costly and may include fees from $20 to
$35 for each "bounced" check you write when you don't
have enough money in your account. Similar fees can be
imposed if you overdraw your account using your debit
card at the ATM. There may also be fees if your checking
account goes below a required minimum balance. And, if
you fail to spot fraudulent transactions, fixing those
can be costly and time consuming.
Your lack of attention could make a
bad situation worse if fees are assessed for several
days or even months. "Account holders can get very
frustrated when they suddenly find out that multiple
checks and payments have been returned, and a fee has
been assessed for each one," said Eloy Villafranca, a
Community Affairs Officer with the FDIC. Villafranca
recalled a situation involving a consumer who "was
confident that her bank statements were correct so she
didn't open them for six months." Unfortunately for her,
a recurring, electronic payment she thought had been
stopped continued to be charged and her account balance
was lower than she thought. "As she wrote checks month
after month," Villafranca explained, "she was being hit
with charges for insufficient funds."
Be aware that if bounced checks are
not repaid in a timely fashion they may become part of
your record. That could make it difficult to get a
merchant to accept your checks. And if your account is
closed by the bank because of repeated problems with
insufficient funds that you do not repay, you may have
difficulty opening a new account elsewhere.
How can you avoid unnecessary costs?
*
Keep
your check register up to date. Deduct for all
withdrawals — not only for checks but also for ATM
transactions, bank fees and debit card purchases. Do not
rely on your ATM receipt for balance information because
it may not reflect outstanding checks or debit card
transactions.
*
Promptly compare your check register with your bank
statement to look for errors or unauthorized
transactions. Open and review your monthly statement as
soon as it arrives in the mail or check your account
information more frequently online or by telephone.
(Note: The federal Electronic Fund Transfer Act protects
you against billing errors and unauthorized transactions
by debit card and other electronic payment methods, but
you must notify your bank within 60 days of the mailing
of the account statement on which the transaction
appears.)
*
Take
additional precautions to avoid fees for insufficient
funds. For instance, make sure you have enough money in
your account
before
you write a big check, use your debit card or arrange
for an automatic payment. Also remember that, under
federal rules that allow banking institutions to put a
temporary "hold" on certain deposits, you may have to
wait from one to five business days (in most situations)
before you can withdraw funds deposited into your
account, and longer in other circumstances (such as
deposits over $5,000 or if your account has been
repeatedly overdrawn).
*
Consider fees when opening a bank account. Fees can
significantly reduce, if not wipe out, your earnings.
Examples include monthly fees for going below a minimum
balance, monthly or quarterly
"inactivity" fees if you've had no deposits or
withdrawals for a certain time period, and annual
service charges on Individual Retirement Accounts
(IRAs).
Article Source: FDIC Consumers News
GLWB:
Guaranteed Income For Life & You Don’t Lose Control
(Spring 2007)
One of the advantages of an
annuity is unlike any other financial instrument it can
guarantee an income for as long as you live. It is the
only instrument that promises if you chose to annuitize
for life you will not outlive your money. However, there
is a downside because if you annuitize you lose control
of your principal.
You could also try to live on the
interest being produced and leave the principal intact,
but what if interest rates are around 3% and you need 6%
to get by on? Well, you could withdraw 6% a year and
hope that future interest rates are higher, but what if
they aren’t? You could run out of income before you run
out of time.
Receive 6% and still
retain control of your principal
The age-old choice has always been
take a guaranteed income and say goodbye to your
principal, or “self-insure” your income and hope the
income lasts as long as you do. But today you can find
fixed annuities that will guarantee an income for as
long as you live AND you still have access to your
principal with a special rider to an annuity policy
called a Guaranteed Lifetime Withdrawal Benefit
or GLWB.
The GLWB assures you of a
guaranteed withdrawal level, usually based on your age,
that stays the same as long as you live. For example, if
you are 70 or over it might guarantee that you can
withdraw 6% of your original premium for as long as you
live. What if you don’t ever earn 6% and your original
premium is used up over the years? The insurance company
takes over the burden and continues to pay 6% for as
long as you live. Your heirs get the balance, not the
insurance company
What
happens if you die? Your beneficiary gets
whatever is left – the remaining balance calculated
after adding in the interest you earned and subtracting
the money you withdrew. Again, it’s based on the
remaining balance calculated after adding in the
interest you earned and subtracting the money you
withdrew (and less any policy surrender penalties that
might apply).
Do you
have to start withdrawing interest immediately?
You never have to withdraw interest at all if you don’t
want to, nor do you have to take the full permitted
withdrawal if you don’t want to. If you don’t need the
withdrawal the money remains in your account.
Can the
income lasts as long as my spouse lives too?
Yes, there are annuities out there that will guarantee
the withdrawal rate for as long as the surviving spouse
lives.
What’s
the catch? Some fixed annuities charge up to
1% for the GLWB protection. However, there are a couple
insurers that have no explicit charge, the benefit is
simply included in the annuity. A fixed annuity is
already a safe money place offering minimum guarantees,
the GLWB is simply an additional level of safety that
allows the consumer to stay in control of their money.
Make no mistake, if you annuitize
for life you will receive a higher income than you would
get from a GLWB. But if your goal is to guarantee both
an income and control of your money the GLWB can make
sense.
Annuities – How Much Is Too Much? (Summer 2007)
I have recently been asked by several
people what percentage of a consumer’s assets should be
in annuities. Is there a percentage that is too high or
too low? Does the correct percentage vary by age? Should
it be higher or lower depending on your total assets?
My answer to them has been that I
don’t know, but I think a few people believe that by
saying this I’m either trying to be politically neutral
or simply afraid to take a stance. Frankly, I wish it
were either of these things because then at least I
would know what was correct even if I didn’t share my
opinion, but the reality is I don’t believe you can plug
some factoids into some model and figure out what
percentage of an individual’s assets should be in
annuities, because it isn’t simply an economic decision.
Is putting 60%
of a consumer’s asset in annuities too little? Is 1% too
much?
Should a person have no more than 60%
of their total assets in annuities? Possibly, if their
risk tolerance was low and they might need, say, an
additional 6% of the annuity value to meet possibly
liquidity needs (most fixed annuities offer 10% annual
withdrawal without penalties assessed).
What about putting 90% of the money
in annuities? If a consumer had a million dollars, a
strong pension, and an overriding goal of leaving at
least $900,000 to their family the annuities could
protect the legacy from market risk and still provide
access to a lot of penalty-free cash.
Is 1% too much? It could be if all of
the assets might be needed without the year, or if the
consumer has such a bugaboo about liquidity constraints
that they only buy airline tickets while boarding the
plane.
It comes down
to how much needs to be safe and the liquidity needs of
the consumer
I view a fixed annuity as a safe
money place protecting principal and credited interest
from market risk. I believe the first question a
consumer needs to answer is how much of their money
should be in safe money places and how much in risk
money places, and I believe the answer comes down to how
the consumer feels about risk of loss. For me, that’s a
personal question and the “correct” answer will differ
from person to person.
Let’s say a consumer does decide that
50% of their money should be in safe money places, how
much of that should be in fixed annuities? That would
depend primarily on liquidity needs. Often – but
definitely not always – safe money instruments with
longer penalties pay higher yields than those without
penalties. The reason why is usually because the issuer
knows they have the money to work with a little longer
so they can afford to pay a little more interest. Again,
this is not always true. For example, today a Series EE
bond is paying 3.4% and you can find money market
accounts yielding well over 4%, even though the
liquidity penalty on a savings bond lasts 5 years and
there is no penalty on the money market.
Fixed
annuities have liquidity penalties that typically range
from 1 to 15 years. If you think you would need all of
the money in 5 years, it wouldn’t make sense to buy an
annuity with 10 years of penalties. But what if the odds
were you wouldn’t need the money in 5 years or even 20
years? Then the annuity might be the best place for a
chuck of the safe money. The questions that need to be
answered are how does the consumer feel about market
risk and what are the liquidity needs of the consumer.
The “correct” answer will vary from consumer to
consumer.
Savings Bonds
Now Have 20 Year Surrender Penalties (Fall 2007)
Series EE Savings bonds offer
tax-deferred growth, a fixed long-term interest rate,
and minimum guarantees.
If you want
your money you can always cash in the bonds – the rules
state you can’t touch the bonds for one year and you
will pay a surrender penalty for the first 5 years. But
in reality the penalty period on a new Series EE
Savings Bond lasts two decades.
Series EE Bonds
guarantee to at least double in value in 20 years and
this works out to an effective annual yield of 3.5%.
What the minimum guarantee says is if you buy a savings
bond for $5,000 today you are guaranteed to get back
$10,000 if you wait 20 years.
But the
current long-term fixed rate for Series EE bonds
purchased between now and next May is 3%. At 3% interest
your $5,000 would grow to $9,031 in 20 years. Now, if
you wait the full 20 years the Treasury will kick in an
extra $969 to cover the $10,000 minimum guarantee, but
if you cash in that savings bond even one day early –
on the 364th day of the 19th
year – you only get $9,031.
In reality, the savings bond has an original basis
surrender charge of 19% if you cash out in the 19th
year!
There are better places to keep money
than in Series EE Savings Bonds.
Potentially
Avoid Probate (Winter 2007)
One of the most tremendous
benefits of an annuity is its ability to avoid probate,
which is wonderful because probate court costs and
attorney’s fees have the potential to erode the assets
in an estate. An annuity death benefit, paid to the
designated beneficiary, does not have to be distributed
by a probate judge. Rather, the beneficiary signs the
insurance company death claim form which directs the
insurance carrier to pay the death benefits either in
lump sum or periodic payments. The carrier then issues
the check directly to the beneficiary thereby avoiding
probate.
Why Avoid Probate?
The estate assets can be split between two categories:
probate and non-probate assets. Probate assets are those
subject to the court’s distribution rules. When
determining costs and fees associated with probate, the
court adds up the value of the probate estate and then
claims a percentage of that value as a fee.
(The exact percentage is set by state law.)
Meaning, if the court had to distribute an asset worth
$300,000, its costs and the attorney’s fees will be a
percentage of that $300,000. Items which the court does
not have to distribute, such as annuity death benefit
proceeds, should not considered when calculating the
courts costs and fees.
Annuity death benefits paid
to a designated beneficiary (not the estate) are not
subject to the court’s distribution rules. This is what
is meant by the often heard phrase “annuities avoid
probate.”
Avoid The “Name Estate”
Mistake
After years of making this unconditional statement, the
industry began choosing its words more carefully because
the annuity death benefits
will
be subject to probate proceedings if the designated
beneficiary is the decedent’s estate. Naming the estate
as beneficiary pulls death benefits back into the
probate process and becomes an extremely costly mistake
for death benefits of both annuities and life insurance.
It is extremely alarming to
learn the number of probate proceedings which
incorrectly include the value of annuity death benefits
when calculating court costs and attorney fees. To
determine whether your state probate courts are guilty
of this abusive practice, check the state probate forms.
Some states clearly distinguish between probate and
non-probate assets, but other jurisdictions have forms
which blur the lines and create inconsistent outcomes.
With an annuity the
insurance company takes care of distributing the death
benefit to the designated beneficiary without any
assistance from the court or the probate attorney.
Naming beneficiaries, instead of the estate, will
clarify the process for handling annuity death benefits
and give the consumer true peace of mind.
Reprinted by permission of
Gorilla Compliance, LLC Copyright
Danette Kennedy
Savings Bonds Are A Terrible Investment Now (Spring
2008)
Altho I
have purchased Savings Bonds in the past because they
have offered safety, tax deferral, minimum guarantees
and usually rates that were at least competitive with
banks, I would not buy one now. The new long-term rate
on Series EE bonds is 1.4%.
That's it, and the 1.4% is locked in and will not
change. Series EE bonds still promise to return double
your money in 20 years - an effective return of 3.5% -
but if you take out your money early you would only earn
1.4%. In actual dollars this means if you put $5000 into
a Series EE Bond today you would get back $10,000 in 20
years, BUT if you cashed in the annuity in 19 years and
364 days you would get back $6,602; this is equivalent
to a 68% surrender charge!
Existing bonds have also
taken a hit. Any Series EE bond purchased in the last 11
years is currently earning 2.74%. Today, it does not
make sense to buy Series EE U.S. Savings Bonds.
2008 –
7, 8, 10,
22 Failed Banks So Far
After going 2½ years
without a bank failure – an uncommonly long period – 3
banks failed in 2007, the most prominent being NetBank
of internet fame. In the first half of 2008 4 banks had
failed; a couple in Missouri, and one each in Arkansas
and Minnesota. Three of these were small and even
including the $2 billion ANB Financial in Arkansas the
estimated cost to the FDIC fund was less than $300
million. And then came IndyMac.
IndyMac Bank of
Pasadena was an aggressive asset gatherer and lender. On
11 July FDIC took control of the $19 billion dollars of
deposits – including the $1 billion of uninsured
deposits. When the IndyMac dust settles the cost to the
FDIC insurance fund is estimated to be between $4 and $8
billion, which means there should still be at least $45
billion sitting in the FDIC piggybank to handle future
bank failures.
In September
WashMu and a little bank in West Virginia failed. WashMu
did not cost the FDIC fund a dime because JP Morgan
Chase took it all, and the failure of Ameribank in WV
cost FDIC a regulatory pittance -
$42 million.
When A Bank Fails
Depositors of a failed bank receive an FDIC message
saying “greetings, your money moved” telling them which
bank now holds their accounts. Normally, insured accounts
are seamlessly taken over by a solvent bank and even the
dead bank’s ATM cards will still work the next day at
the new bank. Uninsured deposits are usually another
matter.
Uninsured depositors become
creditors of the bank. FDIC quickly paid out 50% of
IndyMac uninsured balances to their depositors. They
should receive additional payments as assets are sold.
They may or may not get back 100 cents on the uninsured
dollar and it can take years to get the money (for the
list of 21st century bank failures and what uninsured
depositors received go to
If
The Bank Fails).
FDIC does not publish any ratings regarding the
financial safety of banks, but six independent firms do.
The ratings are typically available to paid subscribers,
but Bauer Financial (http://www.bauerfinancial.com/btc_ratings.asp)
will tell you their rating for a bank simply by filling
in the state and bank name.
How Safe Is FDIC?
The FDIC fund represents a little over 1% of deposits,
but it
is important to note that FDIC may borrow additional
funds from the Treasury if
needed. By the end of November 22 banks had have failed,
but 8513 had not.
Phone-Flation (Summer 2008)
| 1951 |
5¢
phone call went to 10¢ |
| 1973 |
10¢
phone call went to 20¢ |
| 1977 |
States allowed 25¢ phone calls |
| 1997 |
Arkansas becomes last state to end 10¢ phone
calls |
| 2012 |
Last
pay phone in American is removed |
The
Financial Storm (Fall 2008)
This site lets consumers ask financial questions and
usually gets one question a week; now it’s getting
thirty. The current topic is how safe are their savings.
The main question
is “are my accounts FDIC insured.” Consumers seem to be
confused about what is covered by FDIC. People ask
whether credit notes, money market mutual funds, and
401(k) plans are FDIC insured. The answer is no, it must
be a deposit of a bank to be eligible. Scarier to me are
questions from consumers telling me they have X dollars
in checking and Y dollars in savings and saying their
bank told them they were fully FDIC insured. In the last
situation I looked at $140,000 of the consumer’s money
appeared
not
to be FDIC insured because of sloppy account titling. I
am not getting many questions about fixed annuity
safety, but I believe this is because consumers have not
yet reached the annuity line on their worry checklist.
However, we need to remember that altho banks and fixed
annuity carriers are a part of the financial mainland
they exist on a more protected peninsula and because of
this have weathered financial storms before.
I'm
reminding people that we survived 2900 banks closing
during to the Savings & Loan Crisis of 20 years ago
–
as well as the loss of Executive Life & Mutual Benefit
(and none of their annuity customers lost a dime of
principal if they didn't bail according to my research)
–
and to take a deep breath.
In the
current crisis no bank failure has caused a loss of
access to any consumer's FDIC insured deposits, and in
over half of the bank failures uninsured deposits were
also immediately available.
Both life insurance and annuities
are attractive assets because the policy structures
allow the carrier to maintain policy liquidity by
regulating outflow. If the carrier gets into trouble the
whole carrier is usually purchased for these assets, or
the policies themselves are purchased, and life goes on
for the policyholders like before.
These are
tough times but banks and fixed annuities have survived
many tough periods before.
We will survive this storm too.
16 Failed Banks By February End (Winter 2009)
From
Florida to Washington the country quickly added to the
25 banks that failed last year with 16 new banks
entering the tomb by 1 Match.
California and Illinois had
3 failed banks, Florida and Oregon 2 each, and another
half dozen or so states had singles. By all appearances
we are nowhere close to being done with bank failures.
In these 16 bank failures all insured deposits were
immediately available after FDIC action, and in all but
two all uninsured deposits were immediately available as
well. Whether uninsured deposits are fully paid out is a
crap shoot, because it largely depends on how nice the
acquiring bank feels
–
and there usually is an acquiring bank. Unlucky
uninsured depositors may not get all their money back,
and it can take years to get what you can. But with
$250,000 of FDIC coverage per account there are a lot
fewer uncovered accounts than there were when the limit
was $100,000.
The FDIC fund has been
strained by these closings, but it should be remembered
the US Treasury provides a bottomless wallet.
Making
Better Decisions (Spring 2009)
Research by Advantage
Compendium finds there are three keys to making better
decisions.
Take
your time - The most important aid to good
decisions is taking all the time you need to make them.
What this means is making sure you understand the
choices and not letting yourself be rushed into an early
decision.
Educate Yourself - It isn't necessary to become
an expert but it is helpful to at least understand the
major benefits and drawbacks of whatever you are
considering.
Try to
break a big decision into bits - You think you
may benefit from an annuity. How do you pick the right
one from the thousand available? Well, is the annuity
for current or future income? If it is future income
then you're talking about a "deferred" annuity. Do you
need the interest rate locked in for the term or are you
comfortable letting the rate float in future years? If
you want the rate to be guaranteed for the entire
penalty period you're talking about a multi-year
annuity. What term do you want - 1 year, 3 years, 5?
Maybe you want a 5 year term. Now instead of picking
"the best" annuity out of the thousand available you are
picking the best 5 year multi-year annuity and that
narrows the field considerably.
$250,000 FDIC
Account Insurance Extended (Summer 2009)
FDIC will now be insuring bank accounts for up to
$250,000 through 2013. The insurance limit is scheduled
to go back to $100,000 on 1 January 2014.
Too Much
News? Listen To Old Time Radio Shows (Summer 2009)
Old Time Radio shows are a
theatre of the mind and I have enjoyed the comedy of
Jack Benny, the suspense of The Shadow, and the terror
of the Inner Sanctum for years. There are two web sites
that make hundreds of old radio shows available at no
charge. The links are
Old Time
Radio Fans and the
Internet
Archive. I just thought I 'd share my discovery to
you all a happy Hi-yo, Silver AWAY
You Can’t Pour A Quart Out Of A
Pint Jar (Fall 2009)
Doing
research I stumbled across a complaint filed by a
retiree saying she told her financial counselor she
needed $2,700 in monthly income from her $200,000 IRA
and the complaint was filed because she was not getting
it. The reality is no one could get her $2,700 a month
for long because that’s a withdrawal rate of 16%! The
counselor should have stated this, but may have been
afraid that the retiree would simply keep looking for a
counselor that would tell the retiree wanted she wanted
to hear and thus the counselor wrongly tried to do the
impossible.
This site does not give
financial or retirement advice, but it does do math, and
mathematically it is hard to subtract 16% for long from
a sum that is growing at 4% or 5%. This chart shows how
many years money lasts at different returns (∞
means forever).
How Long $100,000 Lasts – Earning %(Top)
Withdrawing $ Each Year (Side)
|
Earn
Withdraw
|
1%
|
2%
|
3%
|
4%
|
5%
|
6%
|
7%
|
8%
|
9%
|
10%
|
|
10,000
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
18
|
21
|
27
|
∞
|
|
9,000
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
17
|
19
|
23
|
29
|
∞
|
|
|
8,000
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
18
|
21
|
24
|
31
|
∞
|
|
|
7,000
|
16
|
17
|
19
|
22
|
26
|
34
|
∞
|
|
|
6,000
|
19
|
21
|
24
|
29
|
37
|
∞
|
|
|
5,000
|
23
|
26
|
31
|
42
|
∞
|
|
|
4,000
|
29
|
35
|
47
|
∞
|
|
|
3,000
|
41
|
56
|
∞
|
|
|
2,000
|
70
|
∞
|
|
|
1,000
|
∞
|
|
|
66 Ways To Save Money
(Winter 2010)
Is an information packed brochure with tips on reducing
auto, utilities, banking and other expenses.
A pdf version is available here.
Less Abuse
From Credit Card Issuers in 2010 (Winter 2010)
Last year the Credit Card Accountability Responsibility
and Disclosure Act of 2009 was signed. Its intent is to
protect consumers from some of the abuses credit card
companies inflict. Beginning last August card issuers
had to mail borrowers the bill at least 21 days before
it was due, and must give 45 days notice before they
make changes to your account (and if you decide to
cancel and not accept the changes the card company can't
demand immediate payment of the card balance). But the
big changes became effective 22 February and include:
-
Better
Disclosure - Your statement will have a new look
showing how much you've paid year-to-date in fees
and interest, what it would take to pay off the
balance in 36 months, and in BIG LETTERS the due
date and the late fee.
-
No More
Over Limit Fees - Unless the cardholder agrees, the
company won't accept an over-the-limit charge and
then hit you with a fee (of course, the charge would
be declined).
-
Payments
Made To Highest Interest Charges 1st - If your card
balance has multiple interest rates (cash advances,
transfers, purchases) the issuer must pay off the
highest interest charging bills first with payments
you make above the minimum required.
-
Gift
Cards - Unless they tell you about it upfront, gift
cards you buy can't charge fees if you don't use
them and cannot expire for at least 5 years.
If you are
thinking of a getting a new credit card, or want to see
how your current card compares, both of these for-profit
sites
cardratings.com and
bankrate.com provide information.
How
Safe Are State Guaranty Funds? (Spring 2010)
With bank
failures on track to exceed 2009's record and the FDIC
fund technically out of money (however the U.S. Treasury
will provide essentially unlimited funds if needed so
insured depositors should not be afraid) some people are
wondering how safe are the state annuity guaranty funds.
Last summer Peter G.
Gallanis, president of the National Organization of Life
and Health Insurance Guaranty Associations (NOLHGA),
which is a voluntary association composed of the life
and health insurance guaranty associations of all 50
states, did a presentation titled
NOLHGA, the Life and Health Insurance Guaranty System,
and the Financial Crisis of 2008–2009. The preceding
link provides a copy to his speech and slides.
Two conclusions from
the speech should be emphasized: "In the current
environment, NOLHGA expects that the guaranty system
will be able to meet obligations to all consumers under
any reasonably foreseeable developments." And what if
the future isn't reasonable? President Gallanis says,
"Even in the event of a '1,000 year flood' affecting the
life insurance industry, the ability of the system to
make use of the assets of insolvent insurers in
conjunction with GA assessments; to spread resolution
costs over the long run-off period when consumer
benefits would mature; and to borrow against the future
assessment capacity of the system, should serve as a
solid foundation for protecting consumers."
FDIC
$250,000 Made Permanent (Summer 2010)
The Dodd-Frank Wall Street Reform and Consumer
Protection Act signed by the President 21 July 2010,
raises the standard maximum deposit insurance amount to
$250,000. This makes permanent the temporary increase
scheduled to expire 31 December 2013. The FDIC insurance
coverage limit applies per depositor, per insured
depository institution for each account ownership
category.
Chasing Yields (Summer 2010)
With bank
yields around 1% and fixed annuity yields of 2%-3%
interest income has simply gone away. Low yield periods
often tempt consumers to chase yields and thereby take
on more risk than they would normally accept. There is
nothing wrong with earning a higher yield if one
understands the risks, but often the risk is difficult
to fully understand, or the need for the higher yield
causes us to pretend the risk isn't really there. If
this interest rate cycle is like all of the previous
interest rate cycles rates will go back up.
Retirees: An 85% Bank Pay Cut (Fall 2010)
Three years ago the average rate on a one year
certificate of deposit was 3.70%. At the close of
September it was 0.58%. A retiree with $200,000 in bank
CDs might have received $617 a month in CD interest in
2007. Today, that same amount produces $97 a month. When
you combine an 85% drop in interest income, with
investment portfolios confronted with sharp losses from
the last bear market, an argument can be made that
retirees have not seen a retirement income environment
this severe since the days in the Great Depression
before Social Security benefits began.
|